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Comment by Mike Botts on July 16, 2013 at 8:34

Hi Vance.  I've been doing blade refinishing using roughly the same way that you describe here.  I do the step sanding all the way up to the thousands and microns, then the polishing.  I've used the green rouge.  the thing I don't do is use the sewn cotton buffing wheels.  I find that they knock off the sharp grind lines I've been so careful to maintain through the whole process.  What I want to do is finish up with a hard felt wheel, and crocus of iron compound.  That's what the old makers used. and that's why their grind lines and swedges look so fine and sharp.  It gives the blades that faceted look.  What I need to know is what hardness of felt wheel to use with the compound I have for "crocus polishing".  There are hard, rock hard and flint hard.  These wheels are expensive.  They can get into the hundreds of dollars depending on the diameter and width.  I want to be certain that I'm using the right wheel before I apply the "head" as the old blade finishers used to call it, when they would prepare a wheel for polishing.  I have the sewn rag wheels, but as Bernard Levine Says; "You would never see a sewn rag wheel anywhere in the old knife factories.  The just didn't use them."  I think hard felt is the way for me to go.  The other bit of information I need, is wheel speed in inches per second, or IPS.  Then I can set the speed correctly, no matter what my wheel diameter is.  Thanks for the reply, but I think other info is still needed.   

Comment by Pat Kennedy on July 10, 2013 at 23:18

Jantz Supply sells the type of anvil you're looking for, as do sellers of jewelry supplies.

KnifeMaker Comment by Vance Wade Hinds on July 10, 2013 at 18:03

Mike,  I can tell you how I clean up knives for people and I hope it helps.  As to where to find thinks, I have a great collection of knife related links on my blog that should speed up your research time in finding tools and knife supplies:  http://texasknives.org/.  As for the polishing, I use a sewn mulsin buff (http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=223_225_176_511)  with 50% chrome Green Rouge for most of my polishing needs.  I use this on blades, bolsters and handle material if it is hard.  This rouge will melt or burn soft handle material.  I use this for most polishing and cleaning duties on blades in pretty good shape or as a final polish.  If there are heavy scratches or substantial corrosion or abuse then I hand sand the blades first.  I start with 60 grit until all scratches are gone and only go length wise.  Then I go to a 100-250 grit.  Then to a 400-600 grit, and then a 1200 grit.  I also have some higher sandpaper I can get into the thousands and microns.  Lastly I go back to the buffer with the green rouge.  I have both a 1" x 30" belt grinder and a 2" x 72" belt grinder.  I use these for profiling, shaping, and blade geometry grinding.  But when trying to polish I hand sand and buff.  I hope this helps.  I have an old anvil I don't use if you are interested.  It is probably bigger then you want though.  I will answer any questions you have if I can.  Thanks, Vance.  

Comment by Mike Botts on July 10, 2013 at 13:08

This is a little off topic, but I need someone out there to help me find some basic tools and supplies for repair of old folders.  I'd like to find one of those little knife repair anvils with the stepped top.  I have punches, and know where to get more.  I also need a good source for brass and nickel silver wire in various gauges to use for pins (rivets).  I could also use some tips on finishing carbon steel blades.  I have some felt wheels,- hard felt - and various compounds, but I would like to know  how to get that mirror finish.  I have a bag of crocus of iron, but I need to know what hardness of felt to use with it, - hard, flint hard, etc. -  and what to mix with it to build up a (head) on the wheel for this finishing task.  Information on inches per second for wheel speed would be helpful.  I don't have a nice 2 inch vertical belt grinder yet.  Just wheels and a small 1" JET belt grinder so far.  I have the skills, and many tools, but I need help on how to apply those skills to pocket knife repair.  Info on any of these issues would be helpful.       

Comment by Bob Robinson on July 9, 2013 at 12:41

Nice looking scales Jack!

Comment by Ron Cooper on July 9, 2013 at 11:39

Those scales look great on that Spydie! Nice work, Jack!

Comment by Jack Haskins, Jr. on July 9, 2013 at 10:20

Here is a recent project I did.  Kirinite lava-flow scales on a Spyderco Jester.

Jester%2C%20kirinite%20lava-flow%20B%20closed.JPG

Comment by Jack Haskins, Jr. on July 9, 2013 at 10:18

Just joined this group.  Recently I've gotten interested in modifying pocket knives on a low level.  Mainly making scales for my knives with screw construction.  Don't know how far this will go.  So far it's gone as far as I can go with limited money.

In Memoriam Comment by D ale on June 28, 2013 at 17:43

take a look here

In Memoriam Comment by D ale on June 28, 2013 at 17:40

Note the "strange hole" in the lower frame half.

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