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Comment by J.J. Smith III on April 5, 2016 at 23:04

Which ever treatment you use, Allanm, you need to make sure that it is fully absorbed by the leather. I've seen the surface looking nice, but the inside was still dried out.

Comment by Bryan OShaughnessy on April 5, 2016 at 21:36

Softens my hands, too!

Comment by Jan Carter on April 5, 2016 at 19:16

Bryan,

Great call in using some sandpaper on the edges to get better absorption!  Also on baseball glove oil.  I have never tried it on a knife but DUH!  I should have LOL.  I have seen it do wonders for old gloves

Comment by allanm on April 5, 2016 at 17:23

Thank you Bryan, good ideas to try also. I had not thought of coated edges. With age I had just guessed the disks were just totally worn and dried out but you may be right in possible coatings.

Jan, I was also halfway surprised at the proxy allowing me to the site, bit not entirely, What surprised me was it allowed me to get to the site but some things don't work, like attaching / embedding images, and when I post a comment, after posting, the proxy whines and cries that I am attempting to go to a social media site and blocks me. But we can get to facebook and twitter, because businesses use them too. Go figure. :-)

Comment by Bryan OShaughnessy on April 4, 2016 at 21:35

Note to allanm: Regarding the leather disks on the handles, I would suggest examining the edges of the disks to see if they have been coated with grease or oil or paint or just "polished" smooth by use.  If so, take a medium sandpaper and rough-up the edges so they will absorb oil; several coats of oil will cause the disks to swell up and close up the gaps.  Second, I would suggest that you use baseball-glove oil on the leather.  Rawlings or Dunlap or whatever brand you can find is ok; they are made especially for treating leather and will have the best chemical compound.  I've used 3-in-1 oil on sheaths and it improves the look and softness of the leather, but it never seems to soak in deep: it always feels oily and slippery. 

Comment by Jan Carter on April 4, 2016 at 20:57

I am surprised work lets you even see us!  Most places block anything to do with knives

Comment by allanm on April 4, 2016 at 20:45

Thanks Jan, I will try to get Simichrome and give that a try, and let you know how it goes. Just to prove to myself the problem is the proxy server at work - I can attach an image in here. So it looks when I'm eating my lunch I need to read and research new knife making things and join in here from home. :-)

Comment by Jan Carter on April 4, 2016 at 20:23

Allanm,

Neatfoots oil may work.  It is certainly worth a good try.  I would start the steel parts out with some simichrome or something along those lines, you can pick it up at walmart, home depot, ebay...just about anywhere.  I would love to watch this one come back to life!

Comment by Jan Carter on April 4, 2016 at 12:05

Derek,

Sometime in the past Bernard Levine posted some info on Kinfolks production

Kinfolks folder productions dates per Bernard Levine:

1) Kinfolks by Kinfolks c1926-1951

2) Kinfolks by Robeson c1951-1965

3) Kinfolks by Parker c1993-present

I am going to take a guess based on the celluloid and the type of match strike pull used on the knife in the pic that it is Parker made

Comment by allanm on April 4, 2016 at 11:24

Link to photo in my uploaded photos

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